Moisturizers: Unani & Modern Perspectives — Old Traditions to Recent Advances
PART 1 — UNANI PERSPECTIVE
1.1 Foundational Concepts
Unani medicine (Tibb-e-Unani) is rooted in Greco-Arabic traditions, originating from Hippocrates, systematized by Galen, and perfected by Arab scholars — Avicenna (Ibn Sina), Razi (Zakariya al-Razi), and Al-Zohrawi (Albucasis).
The Unani paradigm of skin health revolves around two primary physiological constants:
| Unani Concept | Description |
|---|
| Hararat Ghariziyya (Innate Heat) | Vital thermal energy inherent in all living tissues |
| Rutubat Ghariziyya (Innate Moisture) | Natural body moisture sustaining tissue suppleness and vitality |
Core principle: With aging, both Hararat Ghariziyya and Rutubat Ghariziyya decline progressively from birth. This causes weakening of Tabiyat (nature/vital force), slowing of bodily functions, reduced production of Akhlaat (humors), and excess production of Rutubat Fozliyya (extraneous/waste moisture). The result is a shift toward Mizaj-e-Sawda (melancholic temperament) — dry, cold in quality — manifesting as xerosis, wrinkles, and aged skin. [PMID: 39715571 — Bibi Chand & Husain Safder, 2025]
1.2 Unani Theory of Skin Mizaj (Temperament)
┌─────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ UNANI TEMPERAMENT (MIZAJ) OF SKIN │
│ │
│ Hot + Moist (Dam / Sanguine) → Well-hydrated, radiant │
│ Hot + Dry (Safra / Bilious) → Oily, prone to acne │
│ Cold + Moist (Balgham / Phlegmatic) → Pale, puffy skin │
│ Cold + Dry (Sawda / Melancholic) → Dry, wrinkled skin │
│ ↓ │
│ Moisture-restoring therapies target: │
│ Cold + Dry Mizaj (Yabus + Bard) │
│ → Murattibal (Moistening) agents used │
└─────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┘
1.3 Historical Unani Texts on Skin Cosmetics
| Scholar | Era | Contribution |
|---|
| Hippocrates | ~460–370 BCE | Foundation of temperament theory; basis of skin health |
| Dioscorides | 40–90 CE | Materia Medica — plant oils for skin |
| Galen | 129–216 CE | Stabilized theory of humors; introduced cold cream (Ceratum Galeni) |
| Razi (Zakariya al-Razi) | 854–925 CE | Chapter "Zeenat wa Araish" (Beautification) in Kitab al-Mansuri |
| Al-Zohrawi (Albucasis) | 936–1013 CE | Kitab al-Tasrif (30 volumes) — cosmetics as Adwiyat al-Zinat (beautifying drugs) |
| Ibn Sina (Avicenna) | 980–1037 CE | Al-Qanun fi'l-Tibb — detailed skin moisture management |
1.4 Unani Classification of Skin Moisturizing Agents
Murattibal (Moisteners — agents that add moisture)
These correct dryness (Yuboosat) by increasing Rutubat in tissues:
UNANI MOISTURIZING DRUGS (MURATTIBAL)
│
├── PLANT-BASED (Nabati)
│ ├── Roghan Badam (Almond oil) — Softens, nourishes, repairs dry skin
│ ├── Roghan Zaitoon (Olive oil) — Rich emollient; used since antiquity
│ ├── Roghan Kunjad (Sesame oil) — Warming, penetrating emollient
│ ├── Roghan Narjeel (Coconut oil) — Occlusive; prevents TEWL
│ ├── Roghan Arandi (Castor oil) — Thick humectant/occlusive
│ ├── Aloe vera (Sibr) — Humectant, anti-inflammatory
│ ├── Honey (Asal) — Humectant, antimicrobial
│ └── Beeswax (Mom) — Occlusive, emulsifier in Unguents
│
├── ANIMAL-BASED (Hayawani)
│ ├── Mum (Beeswax) — Occlusive barrier former
│ ├── Fat of various animals — Historical occlusives
│ └── Milk (Sheer) / Butter (Makhkhan) — Soothing, emollient
│
└── MINERAL-BASED (Madani)
├── Multani mitti (Fuller's earth) — Absorbent cleanser
└── Kaolin/Clay minerals — Skin-softening
Mulayyinaat (Emollients — agents that soften skin texture)
- Smooth and soften the stratum corneum
- Correct Khushunat (roughness)
- Examples: Roghan-e-Badam Shirin (sweet almond oil), Roghan-e-Zaitoon
Murakhkhiyat (Relaxants — agents that relax contracted/tense skin)
- Relieve tightness and rigidity
- Used in conditions like Tashannuj (spasm) or chronically dry skin
1.5 Unani Cosmeceutical Formulations for Skin Moisture
Classical Unani topical preparations included:
| Formulation Type | Unani Name | Ingredients | Modern Equivalent |
|---|
| Ointment | Marham | Wax + oil base + botanicals | Ointment/unguent |
| Paste | Zimaad | Powder + oil/fat | Thick paste |
| Cream | Naqoo' | Water + oil emulsion | Cream |
| Oil | Roghan | Fixed vegetable/animal oils | Oil formulation |
| Poultice | Tila | Applied topically for skin care | Topical application |
Key classical formulation — Galenic Cold Cream (ancestor of modern moisturizer):
- Beeswax + Rose water + Almond/Olive oil
- Galen (129–216 CE) described this as a water-in-oil emulsion — the earliest known moisturizing cream in history
1.6 Unani Management Protocol for Dry Skin (Yuboosat-e-Jild)
ASSESSMENT
│
▼
Identify Mizaj (Temperament) → Cold + Dry (Sawda)?
│
▼
RESTORE INNATE MOISTURE (Rutubat Ghariziyya)
│
├─── Tadbeer (Regimenal Therapy)
│ ├── Hammam (Steam bath) — hydrates and opens pores
│ ├── Taleeq (Massage with oils)
│ └── Appropriate diet (moist, warm foods)
│
└─── Ilaj-bil-Dawa (Drug Therapy)
├── Internal: Murattibal drugs (almond oil, honey)
└── External (Tila/Marham): Roghan Badam + Roghan Zaitoon
+ Mum (beeswax) + Rose water
PART 2 — MODERN SCIENTIFIC PERSPECTIVE
2.1 Skin Anatomy Relevant to Moisturization
The outermost layer of skin — the stratum corneum (SC) — is the primary site of moisturization:
Stratum corneum showing retained water below and insensible sweat loss (TEWL) above — the basis of all moisturizer action
Key SC structural components:
- Corneocytes — "bricks" (protein-rich, flattened dead cells)
- Intercellular lipid bilayers — "mortar" (ceramides + cholesterol + free fatty acids in 1:1:1 molar ratio)
- Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) — hygroscopic compounds derived from filaggrin breakdown (amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, urocanic acid, lactate)
- Aquaporins — water channel proteins (AQP3 in keratinocytes)
Optimal SC water content: 10–30% by weight
— Dermatology 2-Volume Set 5e, pp. 3096–3098
2.2 Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
Infant skin (a) vs. adult skin (b): Infant skin has less organized SC with higher TEWL; adult mature skin retains water more efficiently — but aging reverses this advantage
TEWL is the passive, insensible diffusion of water vapor through skin to the atmosphere. Elevated TEWL = compromised barrier = the primary target of moisturizers.
2.3 Modern Classification of Moisturizers
The Three Functional Classes
┌────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ MODERN MOISTURIZER CLASSIFICATION │
│ │
│ ┌─────────────┐ ┌────────────────┐ ┌──────────────────┐ │
│ │ OCCLUSIVES │ │ HUMECTANTS │ │ EMOLLIENTS │ │
│ │ │ │ │ │ │ │
│ │ Form oily │ │ Attract water │ │ Fill gaps between│ │
│ │ film on SC │ │ from dermis to │ │ corneocytes; │ │
│ │ → ↓ TEWL │ │ SC (& from air │ │ smooth texture │ │
│ │ │ │ if RH >70%) │ │ │ │
│ │ Petrolatum │ │ Glycerin │ │ Fatty acids │ │
│ │ (99% ↓TEWL)│ │ Hyaluronic acid│ │ Fatty alcohols │ │
│ │ Mineral oil │ │ Urea │ │ Lanolin │ │
│ │ Dimethicone │ │ Sodium lactate │ │ Plant oils │ │
│ │ Beeswax │ │ Propylene glycol│ │ Ceramides │ │
│ │ Lanolin │ │ Sorbitol │ │ Squalene │ │
│ │ Castor oil │ │ Honey │ │ Silicones │ │
│ │ Vegetable │ │ NaPCA │ │ Cholesterol │ │
│ │ waxes │ │ Aloe vera │ │ │ │
│ └─────────────┘ └────────────────┘ └──────────────────┘ │
│ │
│ MOST EFFECTIVE COMBINATION = Occlusive + Humectant + │
│ Emollient working together in one formulation │
└────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┘
Why combination works: Humectants draw water up from the dermis → occlusives trap it at the SC surface → emollients restore texture and lipid integrity.
— Dermatology 2-Volume Set 5e, p. 3098
2.4 Mechanism of Action — Step-by-Step Flowchart
DAMAGED / DRY STRATUM CORNEUM
(↓ NMF, ↓ ceramides, ↑ TEWL, tight/rough/flaky skin)
│
▼
APPLY MOISTURIZER
│
┌────┴─────────────────────────┐
│ │
▼ ▼
OCCLUSIVE LAYER HUMECTANT
(e.g. petrolatum) (e.g. glycerin)
│ │
▼ ▼
Fills interstices of SC Attracts water from
Reduces TEWL by up to 99% deeper dermal layers
│ │
└──────────┬───────────────────┘
▼
INCREASED SC WATER CONTENT
(target 10–30% optimal)
│
┌──────────┴──────────────────────┐
│ │
▼ ▼
EMOLLIENT ACTION BARRIER REPAIR SIGNAL
(ceramides, fatty acids) (some TEWL preserved
→ stimulates lipid synthesis)
│ │
▼ ▼
Fills gaps between SC synthesizes new
desquamating corneocytes intercellular lipids
→ Smooth texture → Long-term barrier repair
│
▼
RESTORED SKIN BARRIER
+ IMPROVED HYDRATION
+ SOFT TEXTURE
Based on Dermatology 2-Volume Set 5e, pp. 3708–3733; Fluhr JW et al., Int J Dermatol, 2025 [PMID: 40231699]
2.5 Skin Barrier & the Atopic Dermatitis Paradigm
In atopic dermatitis, filaggrin deficiency reduces NMF → ↑ TEWL → allergen penetration → Th2 immune cascade. Emollients interrupt this cycle by restoring the barrier.
The "outside-in" hypothesis: Barrier failure allows antigen entry → sensitization → inflammation. Moisturizers/emollients break this cycle at the first step. Petrolatum intercalates into the SC and upregulates skin barrier and antimicrobial peptide gene expression.
— Fitzpatrick's Dermatology Vol. 1 & 2, p. 406
2.6 Modern Moisturizer Types — Formulation Table
| Type | Composition | Best For | Examples |
|---|
| Oil only | Petrolatum | Severely dry/eczematous skin | Vaseline |
| Oil-in-water emulsion | Water + petrolatum | General dry skin | Eucerin, Vanicream |
| Polymer-based | Water + polyglyceryl-methacrylate + petrolatum | Sensitive skin | Cetaphil cream |
| Vegetable oil & wax | Castor oil, corn oil, beeswax, paraffin | Lips, very dry patches | Neutrogena formula |
| Glycerin-rich | Water + glycerin + petrolatum | Normal to dry skin | Neutrogena hand cream |
| Ceramide-based | Petrolatum + dimethicone + ceramides | Atopic dermatitis, eczema | CeraVe, EpiCream |
Table 153.3 — Dermatology 2-Volume Set 5e
2.7 The Three-Product Skin Care System
SKIN CARE REGIMEN FLOWCHART
│
▼
1. CLEANSER
(Remove sebum, bacteria, dead cells)
├── True soap (pH 9–10) → best for oily/dirty skin
├── Syndet (pH 5.5–7) → best for sensitive/dry skin
└── Combar (pH 9–10) → best for normal skin
│
▼
2. ASTRINGENT / TONER (optional)
(Remove residue; deliver actives)
├── Oily skin: salicylic acid, witch hazel
└── Dry skin: propylene glycol, allantoin
│
▼
3. MOISTURIZER
(Repair & maintain epidermal barrier)
├── Dry skin → thicker, higher lipid content (cream/ointment)
├── Normal skin → lotion or light cream
└── Oily skin → gel-based, non-comedogenic
│
▼
OPTIONAL: SUNSCREEN (SPF ≥30, UVA+UVB)
├── Zinc oxide (inorganic, well-tolerated)
└── Titanium dioxide
Dermatology 2-Volume Set 5e, p. 3096; Fitzpatrick's Dermatology
PART 3 — PARALLEL COMPARISON: UNANI vs. MODERN
┌──────────────────────────────────┬──────────────────────────────────┐
│ UNANI CONCEPT │ MODERN EQUIVALENT │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Rutubat Ghariziyya (innate │ Natural Moisturizing Factor │
│ moisture) │ (NMF) in stratum corneum │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Murattibal (moistening agents) │ Humectants + Emollients │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Murakhkhiyat (relaxants) │ Emollients (texture improvement) │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Marham (ointment base) │ Oil-based / petrolatum ointment │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Mum (beeswax) │ Occlusive agent │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Roghan Zaitoon (olive oil) │ Squalene, fatty acids, occlusives│
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Asal (honey) │ Humectant (hygroscopic agent) │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Sibr (Aloe vera) │ Humectant + anti-inflammatory │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Roghan Badam (almond oil) │ Emollient (oleic acid rich) │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Galenic cold cream │ Modern w/o emulsion moisturizer │
│ (beeswax + rose water + almond │ │
│ oil) │ │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Hammam (steam bath) │ Wet-wrap / soak-and-smear method │
├──────────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────────┤
│ Mizaj-e-Sawda (melancholic = │ Xerosis / dry skin / eczema │
│ Cold+Dry temperament) │ (SC barrier dysfunction) │
└──────────────────────────────────┴──────────────────────────────────┘
PART 4 — KEY UNANI HERBS WITH MODERN SCIENTIFIC VALIDATION
| Unani Drug | Active Constituents | Unani Action | Modern Mechanism |
|---|
| Roghan Badam (Almond oil) | Oleic acid (70%), linoleic acid, Vit E | Murattibal, Mulayyinaat | Emollient; restores SC lipids; antioxidant |
| Roghan Zaitoon (Olive oil) | Squalene, oleic acid, polyphenols | Murattibal, anti-aging | Emollient + antioxidant; SC lipid replenisher |
| Asal (Honey) | Fructose, glucose, organic acids | Murattibal | Humectant; osmotic antibacterial; wound healer |
| Roghan Narjeel (Coconut oil) | Lauric acid (50%), MCTs | Murattibal, Mulayyinaat | Occlusive + antimicrobial (lauric acid) |
| Sibr (Aloe vera) | Polysaccharides, acemannan | Murattibal, Mubarrid | Humectant; anti-inflammatory; promotes wound healing |
| Gule Surkh (Rose) | Flavonoids, terpenes, vitamin C | Mubarrid (cooling) | Antioxidant; skin barrier support |
| Sandal (Sandalwood) | α/β-Santalol | Mubarrid, anti-itch | Anti-inflammatory; soothes reactive skin |
| Roghan Kunjad (Sesame oil) | Linoleic acid, sesamin | Murattibal | Emollient; UV-absorbing; antifungal |
| Roghan Arandi (Castor oil) | Ricinoleic acid (90%) | Murattibal, Mulayyin | Thick humectant + occlusive; promotes barrier recovery |
| Mum (Beeswax) | Esters, hydrocarbons | Marham base | Occlusive; emulsifier; antimicrobial |
PART 5 — RECENT ADVANCES (2023–2026)
5.1 Molecular Targets of Modern Moisturizers
Recent clinical evidence shows advanced moisturizers now target specific molecular markers:
Draelos ZD & Nelson DB (2025) [PMID: 40176773] — A new emollient-rich moisturizer demonstrated:
- ↑ Claudin-4 (CLD4) — tight junction protein; enhances barrier
- ↑ Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) — water transport into keratinocytes
- ↑ Hyaluronic Acid Synthase-2 (HAS2) — endogenous HA production
- ↓ Hyaluronidase-1 (HYAL1) — reduces HA degradation
- Clinical result: 116% improvement in skin hydration at 8 weeks
MODERN MOISTURIZER: MOLECULAR MECHANISM
│
Applied to SC
│
┌────┴────────────────────────┐
│ │
▼ ▼
Barrier proteins upregulated Water channel support
(Claudin-4, Filaggrin) (AQP3 ↑)
│ │
▼ ▼
↑ Tight junction integrity ↑ Transepidermal water delivery
│ │
└──────────┬──────────────────┘
▼
Hyaluronic acid synthesis ↑ (HAS2)
Hyaluronidase inhibited (HYAL1 ↓)
│
▼
SUSTAINED ENDOGENOUS HYDRATION
+ STRUCTURAL BARRIER RESTORATION
5.2 Current Standard of Care for Xerosis (2025)
Fluhr JW et al. (2025) [PMID: 40231699] — Restoring Skin Hydration and Barrier Function: Mechanistic Insights Into Basic Emollients for Xerosis Cutis
Key conclusions:
- Skin hydration primarily mediated by SC's NMF and intercellular lipid bilayer
- Xerosis triggers: Cold weather, aging, pollution, medications, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, diabetes, hypothyroidism
- Standard of care: Basic emollients with humectants (glycerol, urea, lactic acid) + occludents (petrolatum, liquid paraffin)
- Basic emollients remain first-line, long-term management for xerosis and associated inflammatory skin diseases
5.3 Ceramide-Centric Formulations
Modern ceramide-containing moisturizers (e.g., CeraVe) directly replenish the SC lipid matrix:
- Ceramide 1, 4, 7 — the three key SC ceramide species critical for lamellar bilayer organization
- Ceramides + cholesterol + free fatty acids must maintain 1:1:1 molar ratio for optimal barrier function
- Deficiency in any → altered bilayer → ↑ TEWL → dry skin / eczema
— Dermatology 2-Volume Set 5e, p. 2636
5.4 Microbiome-Aware Moisturizers
Woo YR & Kim HS (2024) [PMID: 38312314] — The skin microbiome interacts critically with the epidermal barrier in aging skin. Next-generation moisturizers are being developed with prebiotics and postbiotics to:
- Support Staphylococcus epidermidis (commensal) over S. aureus (pathogen)
- Maintain optimal skin pH (5.4) which favors barrier enzyme function
SUMMARY MASTER FLOWCHART
┌──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ MOISTURIZERS: FROM UNANI TO MODERN SCIENCE │
│ │
│ UNANI THEORY MODERN SCIENCE │
│ ───────────── ──────────────── │
│ Rutubat Ghariziyya ──► Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) │
│ Hararat Ghariziyya ──► Metabolic activity of keratinocytes │
│ Murattibal agents ──► Humectants (glycerin, HA, honey) │
│ Marham (ointment) ──► Occlusives (petrolatum, beeswax) │
│ Mulayyinaat agents ──► Emollients (ceramides, fatty acids) │
│ Hammam (steam bath) ──► Wet-wraps / hydration therapy │
│ │
│ TRADITIONAL PLANTS → MODERN VALIDATION │
│ Roghan Zaitoon → Squalene/oleic acid (emollient) │
│ Asal (honey) → Humectant + antimicrobial │
│ Sibr (aloe) → Polysaccharide humectant + anti-inflammatory │
│ Mum (beeswax) → Occlusive barrier former │
│ │
│ RECENT ADVANCES (2023–2026) │
│ ► Ceramide-centric formulations (CeraVe) │
│ ► AQP3 / Claudin-4 / HAS2 molecular targeting │
│ ► Microbiome-aware prebiotics in moisturizers │
│ ► Filaggrin-stimulating formulations (AD management) │
│ ► Bioactive NMF supplements (PCA, urocanic acid, amino acids) │
└──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┘
Sources
Textbooks:
- Dermatology 2-Volume Set 5e — pp. 3096–3098, 3708–3733 (Moisturizers & Skin Care Products)
- Fitzpatrick's Dermatology Vol. 1 & 2 — pp. 406, 2636 (Emollients, SC formation, atopic dermatitis)
- Pfenninger and Fowler's Procedures for Primary Care — Choosing a Skin Care Regimen
PubMed / Recent Evidence:
- Prevention and Management of Skin Aging in Unani System of Medicine — Bibi Chand & Husain Safder, Alt Ther Health Med, 2025 [PMID 39715571]
- Emollient-Rich Moisturizer: Three Elements of Natural Moisturization — Draelos ZD & Nelson DB, J Cosmet Dermatol, 2025 [PMID 40176773]
- Restoring Skin Hydration — Mechanistic Insights Into Basic Emollients — Fluhr JW et al., Int J Dermatol, 2025 [PMID 40231699]
- Microbiota and Skin Barrier in Aging Skin — Woo YR & Kim HS, Front Physiol, 2024 [PMID 38312314]