That combination is generally fine. Niacinamide + azelaic acid 20% can be used together.
Use it like this in the morning:
- Gentle cleanser
- Niacinamide serum
- Azelaic acid 20%, a small pea-sized amount
- Moisturizer if needed
- SPF 50 broad-spectrum sunscreen
The sunscreen is the most important step for dark spots and dullness. Azelaic acid can help acne, clogged pores, and post-acne marks, but without daily sun protection the pigmentation may not fade well.
Since you are tolerating it once daily, continue that schedule for now. Do not move to twice daily yet. Give it 8-12 weeks before deciding whether it is working.
If you notice significant burning, persistent itching, redness, or peeling, use it every other morning and apply moisturizer before it. Avoid adding salicylic acid, retinol, glycolic acid, or scrubs for the next 2-3 weeks while your skin adjusts.Yes, but because you have only restarted azelaic acid 20% 6 days ago, do not put vitamin C and azelaic acid together in the same routine yet. This reduces the chance of irritation, peeling, and new dark marks.
Better routine
Morning
- Gentle cleanser
- Vitamin C serum - start with 8-10%, 3 mornings a week
- Niacinamide, if it is gentle and you already tolerate it
- Moisturizer
- SPF 50 sunscreen
Night
- Gentle cleanser
- Azelaic acid 20%
- Moisturizer
After 2-3 weeks, if there is no burning, redness, or peeling, you can use vitamin C every morning. Keep azelaic acid once daily at night.
Use only a small amount of each product. Do not introduce salicylic acid, retinol, glycolic acid, or scrubs at the same time.
Vitamin C may help dullness and uneven pigment because it has antioxidant activity and can reduce excess melanin formation, while azelaic acid can address acne and post-acne marks. Scott-Brown's Otorhinolaryngology Head & Neck Surgery, “Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)”.
If your vitamin C stings strongly or makes your face itchy/red, stop it and continue only with the azelaic acid, moisturizer, and sunscreen.
Pilgrim 10% Vitamin C Face Serum is a reasonable beginner option for you. It uses a gentler vitamin C derivative,
3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, rather than pure L-ascorbic acid, so it is less likely to sting. It also contains
5% niacinamide, glutathione, and cica, according to the
Pilgrim product information.
However, because you already use a separate niacinamide serum, you do not need both. Too many layers can make your routine sticky or irritating without giving extra benefit.
Best way to use it
- Choose the Pilgrim 10%, not their 15% serum for now.
- Use it in the morning on 2-3 days per week at first.
- On those mornings: cleanser -> Pilgrim vitamin C -> moisturizer -> SPF 50.
- Use your azelaic acid 20% at night instead: cleanser -> azelaic acid -> moisturizer.
- Either stop the separate niacinamide serum, or use it only at night on days you skip azelaic acid.
If your skin stays calm after 2-3 weeks, use vitamin C each morning. If it burns, causes redness, itching, peeling, or more tiny bumps, stop it and keep your routine to azelaic acid, moisturizer, and sunscreen.
The active ingredient matters more than the brand: topical vitamin C can contribute to brightness and pigment control, but daily sunscreen is what prevents marks from getting darker. Pfenninger and Fowler's Procedures for Primary Care, Third, “Vitamin C”.That is fine. Use your azelaic acid 20% once daily, preferably at night.
Routine
- Morning: gentle cleanser -> Pilgrim 10% vitamin C or your niacinamide serum -> moisturizer -> SPF 50
- Night: gentle cleanser -> azelaic acid 20% -> moisturizer
Do not use azelaic acid twice daily yet. Once daily is enough while you are adding vitamin C. If, after 3-4 weeks, you have no dryness, burning, redness, or peeling, you can decide whether twice daily is needed, but it is not necessary for most people.
Azelaic acid 20% is commonly used once or twice daily; starting once daily is appropriate for tolerability. The
NHS acne advice notes once daily can be used for sensitive skin.
Use sunscreen every day. This will make the biggest difference in preventing dark spots from becoming darker.